Xian was one of the cradles of Chinese civilisation, and for centuries the seat of the greatest imperial dynasties. The nation's former capital boasts a splendid array of tombs, temples and museums, and one highlight is a bicycle ride along the massive wall that encloses the old city. However the major attraction lies some distance outside, near the tomb of the first emperor of the Qin dynasty, Qin Shihuang. The UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site of the Terracotta Army consists of three giant pits excavated to reveal the serried ranks of some six thousand unique statues of the emperor's warriors, many of whom are mounted on horses. The detail of the imperial retinue's dress and their facial expressions affords a remarkable view of military life at the time, and the level of craftsmanship is dazzling. Back in the city few can resist a visit to the extensive market or the Muslim quarter, home to China's largest mosque and a tantalising variety of street food.